Eric Asimov’s Italian treasures under $20, listed alphabetically:

Cantina Terlan Alto Adige Pinot Bianco 2007 $17.99
Fresh and clean with aromas of anise, citrus, flowers and minerals. (Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, North Bergen, N.J.)

Cave du Vin Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle Valle d’Aosta 2007 $15.99
Lovely, delicate, dry and floral. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)

Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco “Enrico Cialdini” $17.99
Grasparossa di Castelvetro Secco NV Coffele Soave Classico 2006
Rich, red and frothy, full of fruit but bone dry. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York) $15.99

Dry, tangy and refreshing with flavors of herbs, citrus, minerals and flowers. (Bacchanal Wine Imports, New York)

Dorigo Ribolla Gialla 2007 Colli Orientali del Friuli $17.99
Beautiful aromas and long, lingering flavors of lime, minerals and herbs. (Panebianco, New York)

G. D. Vajra Moscato d’Asti 2007 $18.99
Gently bubbly, joyous and delightful with fragrances of peach and apple. (Martin Scott Wines, Lake Success, N.Y.)

La Palazzetta Rosso di Montalcino 2006 $19.99
Pure and dry with flavors of minerals and dried cherries. (T. Edward Wines, New York)

Ocone Aglianico del Taburno 2004 $16.99
Earth, minerals and musk — dark and delicious. (Polaner Selections)

Ocone Taburno Falanghina 2007 $15.99
Delicious smoky, citrus and mineral flavors. (Polaner Selections)

Oddero Barbera d’Alba 2006 $13.99
Balanced and compact with aromas of cherries and a touch of chocolate.
(Soilair Selection, 1120 Sixth Avenue New York NY)

Produttori del Barbaresco 2006 Langhe Nebbiolo $18.99
A baby Barbaresco to satisfy a nebbiolo yearning. (Vias Imports, New York)

Renato Ratti 2007 Barbera d’Alba Torriglione $16.99
Taut and spicy with tart cherry flavors. (Dreyfus, Ashby & Company, New York)

Rio Maggio Telusiano Falerio 2007 $19.99
Dry and crisp with aromas of flowers and minerals. (T. Edward Wines)

Rodáno Chianti Classico 2004 $17.99
Graceful and pure with flavors of dried cherries and minerals. (Polaner Selections)

Valle dell’Acate 2005 Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico $16.49
Bright and refreshing, with lively, breezy fruit flavors. (Panebianco)

Vaona Valpolicella Classico 2007 $14.49
Delicate and subtle, with floral, berry and herb aromas and flavors. (Acid Inc. Selections, New York)